This is the last of the current planned ponchos. Using Drops Cotton Light throughout, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, this one is made using Hot Pink and Dark Grey.
| Drops Cotton Light Hot Pink |
| Drops Cotton Light Dark Grey |
This is the last of the current planned ponchos. Using Drops Cotton Light throughout, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, this one is made using Hot Pink and Dark Grey.
| Drops Cotton Light Hot Pink |
| Drops Cotton Light Dark Grey |
For this poncho I have used Drops Cotton Light in shades Pink Marshmallow and Grape.
| Drops Cotton Light Grape |
| Drops Cotton Light Pink Marshmallow |
This is the fourth and final poncho made using Colinette Banyan in the multi-coloured/multi-toned Blue Saturn, which is 49% Cotton, 51% Viscose. The cotton yarn is Yarnsmiths Cotton DK, which is 100% Cotton, in the Dark Denim Blue colourway to complement the colours in the Blue Saturn colourway.
| Banyan Blue Saturn |
| Yarnsmiths Cotton DK Dark Denim Blue |
I've made another poncho, using Colinette Banyan in the multi-coloured/multi-toned Blue Saturn colourway, which is 49% Cotton, 51% Viscose. The cotton blend yarn is Drops Cotton Light, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, and I chose the Wild Orchid colourway to complement the pink tones in the Blue Saturn colourway. This is the third poncho using Blue Saturn for the panels, and I have plans for one more after this one.
| Banyan Blue Saturn |
| Drops Cotton Light - Wild Orchid |
I've been busy with a personal project these past few months, since Christmas, but that is now finished and I am back to making again. I've picked up where I left off and made another poncho, using Colinette Banyan again for the panels. It is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range. The second yarn is a new cotton blend yarn.
So, the yarns I have put together for this poncho are the multi-coloured/multi-toned Banyan Blue Saturn, it's a cone of 500g and I had two of them, which is 49% Cotton, 51% Viscose. The cotton blend yarn is Drops Cotton Light, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, and I chose the Petrol colourway to complement the colours in the Blue Saturn colourway.
| Banyan Blue Saturn |
| Drops Cotton Light - Petrol |
I've made another poncho, again using Colinette Banyan, which is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range, along with some new 100% cotton yarn.
So, the yarns I have put together for this poncho are the multi-coloured/multi-toned Banyan Chamois, this time it's a cone of 500g, which is 49% Cotton, 51% Viscose. The cotton yarn is Drops Muscat, which is a 100% mercerized Cotton and I chose the Taupe colourway to complement the taupe tones in the Chamois colourway. I couldn't get anything like this colour in the Drops Cotton Light that I have been using for most of these ponchos. Being a mercerized cotton, it has a sheen to it, whereas the Drops Cotton Light has a matt finish to it.
| Banyan Chamois |
| Drops Muscat Taupe |
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I've made another poncho, this time using Colinette Banyan, which is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range, along with some new cotton blend yarn.
So, the yarns I have put together for this poncho are the multi-coloured/multi-toned Banyan Chamois, this time it's a cone of 500g (I have two of them), which is 49% Cotton, 51% Viscose. The cotton blend yarn is Drops Cotton Light, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, and I chose the Rust colourway to complement the reddish brown tones in the Chamois colourway.
I've made yet another poncho, once again using Colinette Banyan, which is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range, along with some new cotton blend yarn.
The yarns I have selected for this poncho are the softer, subtle variation of tones of a semi-solid colourway of Banyan called Mushroom, which is composed of 49% Cotton and 51% Viscose. The cotton blend yarn is Drops Cotton Light, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, and I chose the Sea Green colourway as it was the only colour I could find that complemented the unusual shade of Mushroom
| Banyan Mushroom |
| Drops Cotton Light Sea Green |
The design consists of six crochet panels, which are then joined together to form a cohesive piece. Additional crochet is added to both the top and bottom, and the piece is finished off with fringing/tassels.
I can't help myself. I've gone and made yet another poncho, once again using Colinette Banyan, which is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range, along with some new cotton blend yarn.
The yarns I have selected for this poncho are the multi-coloured/multi-toned Banyan Marble, this time in a 500g cone (I have two of them), which is composed of 49% Cotton and 51% Viscose. The cotton blend yarn is Drops Cotton Light, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, and I chose the grape colourway to complement the pale purplish tones in the Marble colourway.
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| Banyan Marble |
| Drops Cotton Light Grape |
The design consists of six crochet panels, which are then joined together to form a cohesive piece. Additional crochet is added to both the top and bottom, and the piece is finished off with fringing/tassels.
I've made yet another poncho, once again using Colinette Banyan, which is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range, along with some new cotton blend yarn.
The yarns I have selected for this poncho are the multi-coloured/multi-toned Banyan Marble, this time in a 500g cone (I have two of them), which is composed of 49% Cotton and 51% Viscose. The cotton blend yarn is Drops Cotton Light, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, and I chose the Apple Green colourway to complement the green tones in the Marble colourway.
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| Banyan Marble |
| Drops Cotton Light Apple Green |
The design consists of six crochet panels, which are then joined together to form a cohesive piece. Additional crochet is added to both the top and bottom, and the piece is finished off with fringing/tassels.
I've made another poncho, this time using Colinette Banyan, which is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range, along with some new cotton blend yarn.
So, the yarns I have put together for this poncho are the multi-coloured/multi-toned Banyan Marble, this time it's a cone of 500g (I have two of them), which is 49% Cotton, 51% Viscose. The cotton blend yarn is Drops Cotton Light, which is 50% Cotton, 50% Polyester, and I chose the Wild Orchid colourway to complement the pink tones in the Marble colourway.
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| Banyan Marble |
| Drops Cotton Light Wild Orchid |
The design consists of six crochet panels, which are then joined together to form a cohesive piece. Additional crochet is added to both the top and bottom, and the piece is finished off with fringing/tassels.
I didn't take any work-in-progress photos. I began on 6th October and finished on 10th October 2025. The overall fibre content on this one is 49.5% Cotton, 25.5% Polyester and 25% Viscose. The measurements are 15" across the neck, for a 30" opening and 14" from the neck to the bottom of the crochet (not including the tassels). I have enough yarn left over of both yarns to make more things in the future.
I've made another poncho, this time using a beige mix of Colinette Banyan, which is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range, along with some not-quite-vintage but definitely discontinued Patons Orient in shade Rich. Colinette Yarns was established in the 1970s by Colinette and Geoff Sansbury, who ran it together for years, creating interesting yarns and even more interesting hand-dyed colourways. I don't know if Geoff is still around, but Colinette passed away around 2015/2016. The company is now run by their son, Sam, with a much smaller range. The Patons Orient turned out to be too thin for my liking as I started working with it, so I undid the small amount I had done and doubled it up to make it thicker.
So, the yarns I have put together for this poncho are the multi-coloured/multi-toned Banyan Chamois, this time it's a cone of 500g (I have two of them), which is 49% Cotton, 51% Viscose and the gorgeous colour and texture of Patons Orient shade Rich, which is 50% Polyamide, 30% Acrylic, 15% Mohair and 5% Wool.
| Banyan Chamois |
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| Patons Orient in shade Rich |
I didn't take any work-in-progress photos. I began on 25th September and finished on 28th September 2025. The overall fibre content on this one is 28% Polyamide, 22% Viscose, 21.5% Cotton, 17% Acrylic, 8.5% Mohair and 3% Wool. The measurements are 14" across the neck, for a 28" opening and 15" from the neck to the bottom of the crochet (not including the tassels). I have lots of both yarns left over to make other things at a later date.
I've had a couple of weeks' break from making anything, as we were busy ensuring that we had everything needed for our youngest to move into University accommodation, about 50 miles north of where we live. It's a big change for all of us, as our eldest had stayed living at home while studying for her degree at a local University.
Another poncho has been made, and this time I have chosen to use a slightly lighter-weight yarn. Actually, I have sorted out yarn to make a number of these ponchos in a lighter-weight yarn.
The first one is made using two different colours of Colinette Banyan, which is not quite a vintage yarn, but it is no longer part of their current range. Colinette Yarns was established in the 1970s by Colinette and Geoff Sansbury, who ran it together for years, creating interesting yarns and even more interesting hand-dyed colourways. I don't know if Geoff is still around, but Colinette passed away around 2015/2016. The company is now run by their son, Sam, with a much smaller range.
So, the colourways I have put together for this poncho are the multi-coloured/multi-toned Ischia and the softer, but not completely solid, coloured Elephants Daydream.
| Ischia |
| Elephants Daydream |
Continuing on with making these lacy crochet scarves I have been summoning up the muster to have yet another go with trying to make something using some Sirdar Duet in Mahogany brown. I've tried a few different patterns now and it just looks limp and lifeless and I've had to undo everything and try again. It doesn't look like it but it is actually a worsted weight yarn.
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| 56% Cotton, 44% Nylon |
It is really horrible stuff to work with, especially the shiny slippery part of the yarn and it needs to be used in a design that is more structured and sturdy. I didn't use all of the yarn that I had and I just binned the left overs as they really are not worth worrying about. I actually have this yarn in three more colours, blue, white and black and the plan is to make more shawls the same as I did years ago, which is actually a pattern specifically for this yarn.
I had my doubts about this scarf but I persevered and its come out OK despite the fact that it is technically all in one colour.
I am still ploughing on with using up the aran weight cotton yarn, I'm getting there but not there yet. I have some very bright yellow that I have used as flower centres but it's not really the colour that I hoped for when I ordered "lemon". I was expecting a nice pale yellow and I got this "lemon rind yellow" colour. That'll teach me for shopping and ordering when I am tired, I obviously wasn't paying full attention.
So, now that I just have a whole load of bright yellow doing nothing I decided to over-dye it to make it more usuable and a more appealing colour cos it's going to take someone really special to pull that bright yellow off. Pass the sunglasses. I bought some dye for cotton, Dylon handwash dye in shade "Ocean Blue". I wound the balls of cotton onto my niddy-noddy and tied each one off loosely so I had 7 and a half skeins. You have to make the ties loose when you dye otherwise you can get a tie-dye effect, I don't want this at this time. This dye is a "cold water" dye, you don't actually use cold water per se, it is warm but only hand-warm, not really hot to boiling like my other dyes that I use. I made it up in my dye pot as per the instructions and lowered the skeins of yarn in and followed the instructions for timings etc.
All dyes that I have used, no matter what kind, react with the base colour of the yarn or fabric that you are dyeing so you have to take that into account and so "standard colour mixing rules" apply i.e yellow + blue = green, yellow + red = orange, blue + red = purple, blue + red + green = brown, you get the idea. So I know that blue dye on a yellow yarn is going to make green, but what shade of green. I am hoping, based on the shade of blue dye I've picked, that it might come out leaning toward the olive green tones but I am not familiar with Dylon dyes so I don't really know what their shades are like.
So, its not come out Olive green but its decent but if you look closely its not totally even, a few flecks of yellowy-greeny bits still exist, not bright yellow but not fully green either. Not what I'd hoped for but it does add interest that I can live with.
Once dry I decided to make the same design shawl I made earlier in the year. Due to the fact that this one is cotton and smooth and more dense it looks different to the white fluffy acrylic version, its not as cuddly, but that's different fibres for you, they all have their own look and different properties
I quite enjoyed making the pink/purple/red blanket throw so I am going to make another using an array of colours, still sticking with 12 though, and I am going to take it a little bigger and start with 6 centres of each colour, giving me 72 motifs in total for a 6 x 12 formation.
Leaving the bottom motif where it was I then took each pile from the first row and placed it in the third row but dropping it down by one motif and I done this for each pile in turn, row by row until all 72 motifs were out. Then I had the task of making sure that no two motifs next to each other had the same colour last row and if I did I find that then I always swapped with another with the same centre colour and I kept going until I was happy with that and then done a check on the middle round and took whatever swaps steps were necessary there. The final step was just to make sure that there weren't large patches of red or purple or whatever in one place and that as best as possible that all colours were are evenly spread out as feasibly possible. Once happy I used some of the safety pins and I connected each motif in place using one of the chain spaces to make sure they didn't get mixed up.
I tried again to figure out the instructions but they are still not working for me as they are written so I know what the pattern is intended to be and how many repeats are needed its just that the written instructions don't add up and I can't even figure out which bit is wrong due to constant noise from one person or another, and not necessarily in this house, neighbours seem to be constantly mowing grass, drilling into walls, hammering and banging and I can even hear one person's washing machine through the thick concrete wall and it making more noise than the one that's actually inside my own home! Its infuriating!
I didn't take as many work-in-progress photos this time, for some reason, so I don't really have anything to show now other than the photos of it pinned out to dry. Oh, yes, I added the same edging as last time which was... "Three rounds, starting with a base round, then a round of V stitches and finally the shell with picot edging, with a special version for the corners".
Having had a break from using up the aran weight cotton whilst I finish my British Sheep Breeds project I need to get back to working on using it up as I still have a lot left. I have recently ordered some more in colours that I can use as a colour that ties all the other colours together so I have a new batch of white and a new batch of ecru for that purpose.
I found a pattern that I liked that uses 12 colours plus a main but its for a huge bed throw so I am going to make it but in a smaller size and I've chosen to start with the various pinks, purples, reds and one peach that I have in my left-overs.
I made 5 centres in each colour, giving me 60 and then added round two, 5 of each colour across the 60 and then the same for round 3. I made a list and worked it out so that two similar colours were not next to each other and that no two motifs were the same, some are similar but not exactly the same.
I had all the motifs in piles of 5 based on the centre colour. To work out placement of each motif I first decided on configuration of the final item and decided on a 6 x 10 formation, which then means that the piles of motifs need to be in two rows of 6 to begin with. I then arranged them by centre colour, light, dark, light, dark, light, dark and then second row dark, light, dark, light, dark, light and then made sure the colour type were well spread.
Leaving the bottom motif where it was I then took each pile from the first row and placed it in the third row but dropping it down by one motif and I done this for each pile in turn, row by row until all 60 motifs were out. Then I had the task of making sure that no two motifs next to each other had the same colour last row and if I did I find that then I always swapped with another with the same centre colour and I kept going until I was happy with that and then done a check on the middle round and took whatever swaps steps were necessary there. The final step was just to make sure that there weren't large patches of red or purple or whatever in one place and that as best as possible that all colours were are evenly spread out as feasibly possible. Once happy I used some of the safety pins that I had bought for the British Breeds Project and I connected each motif in place using one of the chain spaces to make sure they didn't get mixed up.
When it came round to the joining of the motifs I tried to follow the pattern but it didn't work out for me, depending on how you read it you either end up with 5 "corners" or 3 "corners when it should be 4 corners on each motif so I ended up doing the pattern but figuring out the repeats myself. The instruction for how to handle corner joins was there in the pattern notes but not in the instructions where it was needed and it took me a while to find it and figure it out and I made sure that all the joins were in the same format, like when you do cross-stitch you make sure all the bottom stitches face the same way and the top stitches all face the opposite way to the bottom so that you have a smoother, neater finish.
There was no finishing edging in the pattern, which I think is weird for something like this so I found one myself and added it all the way around. Three rounds, starting with a base round, then a round of V stitches and finally the shell with picot edging, with a special version for the corners.
The photos above show it finished but before blocking and the lower one shows it pinned out blocking to shape. I haven't gotten any decent photos of it yet, I need to figure out how I want to show it off but I will get them when I can.